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Simply Crepes shows versatility of flat French pancake

The Earth is round. Pancakes are flat. Yet the world of pancakes seems immense, with just about every culture putting its stamp on the thin, pan-baked bread.

Simply Crepes, which opened in 2003 in Pittsford's Schoen Place and now has locations in downtown Rochester and Canandaigua, features the flat French pancake.

No matter which locale you choose (all have the same menu, the same colonial blue furniture, white tablecloths, vintage maple sugaring photos and tasteful country elegance), you will find the crepe taking on multiple shapes: a seafood purse gathered at the top and tied off with an edible green ribbon; a crisp baked crepe bowl filled with fruit; a tube rolled with ice cream; or, as my lunch came to me, a commodious pouch that splays open with a thick slice of ham and melted Swiss cheese with maple-mustard vinaigrette-dressed greens on top.

Whether plain (made with wheat flour) or buckwheat (for people who like the Brittany style or who need to avoid gluten), these crepes are supple and soft yet hold irresistible folds, kind of like a Shar-Pei puppy. Luckily, the crepes taste much, much better.

The fillings are as varied as the presentations. For breakfast, it might be spinach and tomatoes with eggs. For lunch or dinner, saucy chicken-tarragon with mushrooms and broccoli, a hot entrée, or smoked salmon with caper-dill sauce and greens, served cold.

Owner Pierre Heroux, a Quebec native whose family produced maple syrup, once told me he fell in love with the crepe's versatility while working and living in Tokyo, where crepe stands proliferate. He has not only made other ethnic interpretations (Chinese, Thai, Mediterranean), but has added his own Americanisms, from Buffalo chicken to Philly cheesesteak.

Karen Miltner is our staff food writer. Between feedings, she can be reached at kmiltner@DemocratandChronicle.com.